Corset

[helwen]

I really need to learn to read the pattern instructions/information well ahead of a project...

The corset calls for something called a busk, which I thought was a one piece thing kind of like a bone folder, but in this case at least it appears to be a two-part thing, one side having holes and the other buttons/pegs that go through them. And of course I want to make it now, not a week or two from now. Fortunately, I have hook and eye tape -- the which I can no longer find in stores, but I have a little left in stock.

Then I'm reading up on the half-oval reed that I have, and the recommendations for using this material are for up to early 19th c, and I'm doing a late 19th c corset. I'm not really sure what the difference in support needs is -- can I just put more than one piece in each slot to make it stiffer? Seems like that would work, since the reed is thinner than the metal stays some folks use. I have a vague recollection of being told I could do this...

At least I have the duck canvas that the pattern called for :P Amazing how I can have all this sewing stuff and still not have all the right things!

Well, it will be a pretty simple corset, as it won't be worn on the outside. Hm.... three weeks and lots of sewing to do -- be interesting to see how much gets done!

Comments

[isabeau-lark.livejournal.com]

I was surprised Kass & Bob don't have them, however...check out pg. 6 of the catalog:

http://www.giannuzzi.com/ghinc/catalogue/GH_catalogue_part_1.pdf

[lady-jade-01.livejournal.com]

Use zip ties with the business end cut off if you have to (people do this and they say works better than the metal stays)

[helwen.livejournal.com]

Thanks yes, I've read that too. I'm going to give the reed a shot since I already have it. Doubled for more strength.

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

late 19thC corsets are a different ball game altogether!
You need the right supplies to pull off this corset correctly, including metal boning, spiral boning and a proper busk. The metal boning goes on the straight, down the centre of the wider pieces, and down the CB on each side. The spirals go down the seamlines and need to be the spiral type because of the curve of the seamlines.
The busk is important to getting into and having the right shape while you are wearing said corset. You lace the thing with a big gap, also with an upright loop on each side right at the waist, put it on and button up the busk. Then with your thumbs, you pull the loop at the centre back waist until you are laced in completely. Only ever pulling at the waist! This is important for comfort as well as shape as your flesh needs to go up and down into the wider parts of the corset.
I have worked for many historic sites over the years and have experimented with many corset styles. Learning from experience, I have learned a lot and been able to pass on greater comfort to the Interpreters I've dressed.

[rtropeano.livejournal.com]

I have looked at a number of sites looking for the busk and stays. What I keep running across is that I can buy a finished corset for only a little more than buying the pieces and trying to make it myself. Ariel and Rosemary each bought one this summer. The busk is really important to providing the shape, and being able to get in and out of the thing. I bought a pattern as well and discovered that the hook and eye tape gapped and buckled something fierce. I used some velcro along it to create a smooth seam.

[helwen.livejournal.com]

I've thought about buying a corset, but likely they would be a little too long for me, at my size. I've cut an inch off the pattern so that it will fit.

On the hook and eye tape, the tape part has a channel, so after sewing it on I ran reed through it.

Right now I'm trying to find my grommet gun...

[helwen.livejournal.com]

Thanks Estela! Unfortunately I don't have time to wait for metal stays. I should have done the research on the parts for this sooner, but what's done is done. I'll do the best I can with what I have, for now. It'll be easy enough to replace the stays if I need to.

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

I figured that, but wanted you to know what's what so that you aren't discouraged with an uncomfortable corset. The metal bits and busk can always be tucked in later when they arrive.

Have fun at the event!

[helwen.livejournal.com]

Thanks for the info :)

Yes, I think after SPWF I'll have to review and re-do a few things.

I've had to put finishing the corset on hold until I can get a grommet gun (I'm hoping tonight). Meantime, I've started looking at a jacket pattern and pulling the materials together for that. Looks like I should buy some interlining fabric too, although maybe that can wait... The fabric I chose for the outside is see-through-ish, so I'm going to use a matching colored fabric for the interlining. Interesting that it has boning too... I hadn't realized they did boning in more than one layer.

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

oh yes! The Victorians were heavily into their tailoring. The boning keeps the darts nice and flat.

Have you thought about using a contrasting fabric for the interlining, to purposefully show through the fashion layer? Another option...

[helwen.livejournal.com]

Yes, I think I may do that, altho' I don't know what color to use. The fashion layer is cotton candy pink in a squared lattice pattern and I plan to use it for a jacket and overskirt. I realized I didn't have enough pink linen to interline both the jacket and the overskirt (assuming that's lined -- haven't ready the details on that yet). The main skirt will be of a purple fabric.... mulberry I think?

The skirt will be calf length because I want to wear it for every day, not just for special events.

If I have time, I may make knickers too.... I want to do something silly and have them go down to the ankle (like one of the 'athletic' outfits) -- the net overall intended effect is to look like a fuschia blossom.

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

sounds like fun!

[helwen.livejournal.com]

I hope so :D I have some thoughts on green highlights in the embellishments as well. Ah, did you get a chance to see my other posts today?

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

no, I will go look!